ISLAND
NEWS
Happy New Year: We wish
you all the best for the new year. Please drink and drive responsibly. Better
yet, drink irresponsibly, have a great time, and don't drive. This is the time
of year when the island goes wild in an orgy of great food and great fun. If you
haven't been here, you should try it at least once. Almost every restaurant has
a fantastic meal and many places have fireworks (Cupecoy,
Maho, Philipsburg, and Orient have some of the best).
Weather and Beach
report: I was so busy last
week getting the apartment opened, internet hooked up, and trying to switch
hosting companies for the websites that I didn't go to the beach or even look
outside much. It was a fairly rainy week, but frequently in the evening, leaving
some fairly good beach days. It's not terribly warm, but humid enough to make
the A/C or a good breeze appreciated. As Christmas approached, it got better,
but as usual the Christmas winds appeared. Christmas itself was a beautiful day
with some rain in the evening. Sunday was more of the same. On Monday, we
finally went to the beach for a glorious day and report that there is quite a
bit of beach at Cupecoy after the earlier rollers subsided. There was sand at
the little cove past Ocean Club and more sand at the far end. Unfortunately, the
rollers came back and the only people on Cupecoy were surfers. Still, there are
other, more protected beaches. The ones facing southwest were getting hit pretty
bad, but Simpson Bay was OK. The weather has been warm enough, hot in the sun, a
bit breezy, but little rain.
Sailing: Neil on Celine has set up a charter on
the Saturday of the Heineken Regatta (5
March 2005). At $75 per person, it includes a complete day on the sea with all
food and drink. It is a long way off, but the island gets pretty crowded and the
charter boats fill up. If you want a front row seat for the action, go to Neil's
website, check out the regatta page, and send him an email
reservation.
Marci's
MegaGym: Marci and Francis have finished their
expansion/renovation. There are now five rooms at about 50 ft by 50 ft. One is
for classes - yoga, dance, step aerobics, kick boxing, etc, one is the
entry/stairway/juice bar, two large rooms are devoted to weights (with a
corner taken out for the locker rooms), and there is a final room full
of cycles, steppers, etc.
We got some Vacherin from Franche-Comté at
Magasin du Pont (US
Import) in Sandy Ground. Steve Jenkins calls it "ambrosial, part of the Holy
Trinity of cheese" in his
Cheese
Primer. That may be a bit much, but it is pretty good. We also
stopped at the
Lido
Express in Maho and got some very tasty Virginia Ham. It had a deep smoky
flavor and is much cheaper than euro-based prosciutto, Bayonne, or Serrano
hams.
RESTAURANTS
On 22 Dec the
euro was at 1.331 and today it's
at 1.363. It's only a small
change, but it's 3 percent. French side restaurants with many costs in dollars and many American (or
Canadian) clients have been offering more favorable exchange rates. Some
restaurants offer a 1 to 1 exchange. We got that at California in
Grand Case earlier and this week at Auberge
Gourmande and La
Marine. We noticed Escapade and Marlin's Cafe
were offering the same. We will let you know about other places as we find
them. As always, know what the
euro is worth, what the restaurateur is offering for an exchange, and what the
costs are on the menu. Finally, you are here to have fun and fine food, not to
do complex financial calculations, so don't worry about it too
much.
Changes:
Shanker Indian restaurant, across from Marci's Mega Gym and Trisport, is gone from
Simpson Bay. Sitar also closed becoming Moulin Fou (a French restaurant),
leaving the field to Lal's Indian Cuisine, Anand, and Pride of
India. Last week's link to Café Juliana was
bad. This one should work. Piccolo Cafe has moved from Cul de Sac on the
French side to Simpson Bay
East. They are in the same location as the new outpost of Zee Best. Zee
Best serves breakfast and lunch and Piccolo takes over and
serves tapas for dinner. In Grand Case, Au Bout la Bas has become
Senses Garden and Michael's Cafe is now Marlin's Cafe, considerably spiffed
up and serving lots of fish. It's open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and
is doing 1 for 1. Chez Jojo and Lolotte is now Le Ti Provencal, run by
Herve Sageot, one of the former chefs of Chefs du France catering. We
bumped into Philippe from Splash/Village Baker/Grand View Cafe at the Ace
Hardware store in Pburg. He and Bill got an offer they couldn't refuse on Splash
and are putting together a restaurant/lounge to be known as Tabba
Khady in Oyster Pond. That explains his presence in the hardware
store. I believe that he said Tabba Khady meant Bon Apetite in the
language used by the natives where he grew up in Niger.
Dining: I misspelled last week's link to
Schmidt's Seafish and its seven language
fish translation page. Bernard Rolin of
Paris Bistro and
The Wharf said the mystery
fish is spelled sar and is a fish from the deeper waters of the med. He also
said to put a 10% off coupon on the
Paris Bistro website, something of
a non-sequiter.
On Wednesday (22 Dec) we went to
Maeva for an
authentic French dinner. It's a small, mom-and-pop place, Bruno is the chef and
Brigitte, his wife, waits tables. It's on the main street in Grand
Case, long a favorite of locals and visitors for its high quality and
excellent prices and is newly redecorated as it opens for the season.
We had a festive meal there ordering from among the ten specials on the
chalkboard. The regular menu of French classics, some traditional and some with
a Caribbean twist, is always available. We started with the Trilogy of
Foie Gras, a bargain at 14 euros. Three house-made preparations, one
terrine with cepes, one terrine nature, and one ballotine-like slice of
chicken enclosing foie gras and cepes, were accompanied by pickled
chanterelles and a pot of sel de Guerande. We followed with a dish
of large shrimp and calamari, perfectly cooked, in a creamy garlic sauce, 15
euros, and a duck magret with a racy topping of minced garlic, fresh herbs,
and diced tomato, served with fresh chanterelles, 23 euros, ordered by the
person who would have mushrooms in every dish of every meal. (Astute
readers will note that Martha wrote this restaurant review).
Friday night (Christmas Eve dinner) was at
Le Cottage. As usual, we turned
the wine selection over to Stephane, and Stephane in a festive mood offered
a flute of 98 Jacquart Champagne. It was spectacular but it's unclear that
it was the best thing with the tasty accras and spicy sauce that is always
offered as a lagniappe, so we finished the champagne first. We started
dinner with an aumoniere, a beggar's purse of phyllo dough filled with
sweetbreads and duck with cabbage and honey. Lots of flavor and textures here.
Stephane brought a Lagrave-Martillac from the Pessac-Leognan region of Bordeaux.
It was made from sauvignon blanc and semillon, a rather nice, not cloying, white
wine. Our dinners were lotte with porcini and mashed potatoes and saddle of hare
(lievre, rather than lapin, rabbit). The saddle of hare was stuffed with a
mirpoix, tiny diced veg, and accompanied by a timbale of macaroni with hints of
foie gras. By the time the lotte reached the table, the porcini had morphed
into yellow and black chanterelles. No complaints from the mushroom lover. We
harvested these all summer and find them superior to porcini. Not only were
there plenty of them with the lotte, but lots more in the mashed potatoes. For
the main course Stephane brought the Lagrave-Martillac rouge. Yes, red wine with
fish, but this is tasty fish and a rather smooth wine. A couple coffees, a
couple balloons of Armagnac, and the chocolate dessert brought our bill up to
$120. Le Cottage uses a realistic rate of exchange, but still has
reasonable prices.
Christmas dinner was at
The
Horny Toad Guesthouse, by invite only, they do not serve dinners except to
guests and invited friends on special occasions. However, it doesn't take much
for Betty to declare a special occasion. She got some great roast beef
at
Cost-U-Less for only
$10 per pound and various guests brought various other dishes for a fine time
under the gazebo on Simpson Bay Beach.
Sunday at
Auberge
Gourmande we were glad to see Florence back at work, although it is now
almost eight months since she left to have her baby. She had photos for us
and the last bottle of 98 Pommard-Rugiens from Bouchard, another
non-sequiter. They are now serving the 2002 and it is supposed to be a
great year, but rather young. The 98 was quite nice, especially as it warmed
from the rather cool wine storage room. The beautiful Creole cottage is still
lovely with several air-conditioned rooms inside and a lovely porch on the
street. We generally opt for the porch and watch the passersby. When
Harmony Nights starts
up in January, this will be in the center of things, and as close as
you can get to the street. Christophe is still here and started
us with the sea scallops grilled in soy and sesame oil, served with a
crunchy rice cake. Again, a dish with lots of tastes and textures. I
had lotte with shrimp and Martha had sandre (perch pike) with red wine and
porcinis. We were having red wine with fish again, but the large
flavors surrounding the fish were such that the delicate Burgundy did not
overwhelm the fish. Admittedly, these fish dishes were not particularly oily,
so the crisp acidity of a white wine was hardly needed needed. As
we were already eating too much we just had coffee and Armagnac before heading
home. They are taking cash at 1 to 1.
On Monday night we had a casual diner at
The Wharf Restaurant, the new
restaurant from Bernard Rolin of
Paris
Bistro. The atmosphere is a combination of Boathouse, Lee's, and Paris
Bistro with a bit of the old Brasserie de la Gare via George who used to work
there. It's on the main drag through Simpson Bay between Lee's and the Boathouse
in a brand new building with great views from the terrace dining room
overlooking the megayachts. When we were there, the full moon was just rising
over the mountains to the east. There is a band every night, but they are
quiet enough that you can actually talk at the tables. They feature fresh fish
in an iced down boat at the door and they barbecue that (and meat) right next to
the boat. The snapper and the mahi looked fresh as could be and tasted just the
same. We started with conch fritters and added a bottle of pinot noir (more red
wine with fish) to bring the bill to $80 with 15% added.
We had a wonderful dinner on a lousy, windy Wednesday night
at
La Marine. Normally, I would
be telling you about soft breezes and great views, but his time it was howling
winds and grateful feelings about the plastic securely fastened about the
windows! The core staff of Camille and Melanie in the dining room and Gilles in
the kitchen has returned for the winter season with a slightly revised menu.
Camille has spent his spare time polyurethaning the bin ends from wine crates
and putting the menus inside a hinged pair of them. It makes a spectacular
presentation and, in our opinion, the menu deserves it. The dining room is
pretty, deep blues and whites, with lots of plants in large crocks. The double
wide lot puts many tables on the water and the spaciousness and plantings make
them all very nice. They still had the Pommard Epenot, Domaine Aleth Leroyer
Girardin, on the menu, still priced at 39.50 but the year is now 2002 - young,
but a great year. A lagniappe of tomato and onions with cockles out of their
shell arrived in a pastry shell before we started with the snails from the
menu: Traditional snails in garlic butter with crushed tomato topped with a
toasted crouton. There were four ramekins each containing three snails, lots of
garlic, butter, tomatoes, and onions topped with a crispy crouton sprouting a
sprig of chervil. Our dinners were the shredded duck meat wrapped in a potato
crust, served with roasted duck breast in cocoa and black pepper sauce from the
menu and a venison loin with a wild mushroom duxelle in a crepinette bathed in a
rich madiran wine sauce, accompanied by sliced baby carrots wrapped in a bit of
braised endive. Both were well-conceived dishes with many flavors and textures
and they were great with the Burgundy. With water and two coffees, our bill came
to 105 and for cash, that is $105.
As mentioned earlier, Betty at
The Horny Toad Guesthouse will have a party
for most anything. We were back on Thursday for BBQ in honor of her
granddaughter's sixteenth birthday. The food came from
Lido in
Cole Bay. It was inexpensive and we have half of it in our refrigerator for
lunch. Tonight, New Year's Eve, is yet another excuse for a dinner and party on
the beach. Note that
Lido in
Cole Bay is the restaurant next to the
Lido Express grocery
store. There is another
Lido Express in Maho and
that one, in addition to being on the west side of the drawbridge, has a larger
selection. It's managed by the former manager of the Food Center in Cole Bay,
now Ram's.